Everyday Entertaining
La Mamounia, Marrakech Magic
I first visited Marrakech and the legendary La Mamounia Hotel more than ten years ago. I have since been back many times and can definitely say it’s one of my favorite “authentic” cities in the world. The Medina, a maze of streets and buildings located inside the original rich red clay adobe walls, sits under bright blue skies brought alive regularly with the sounds of the call to prayer from the minarets that punctuate the low skyline. It’s best compared to a labyrinth with stores, markets, and vendors all thrown together with no clear master plan.
My journey back to Marrakech this past November, as a guest only, was in celebration of the official opening of one of the grand dames of all hotels, the La Mamounia. I was blown away by the extraordinary makeover the hotel enjoyed under the master vision of the fabulous French decorator, Jacques Garcia and the La Mamounia team that so carefully made sure Jacques’s vision was executed to perfection. Every aspect of the hotel’s makeover was well thought out; this was definitely no nip and tuck, it was a major overhaul of the entire hotel including the 20 acres of extraordinary gardens and orange groves that are almost 300 years old.
I don’t remember being in a hotel where the rooms and suites were so authentically and sumptuously decorated, with a big nod to sensuality and comfort. The hotel’s 136 rooms, 71 suites and three riads/villas with three bedrooms, terraces and private pools were redone in saffron and burgundy colors. The palette selected for the rooms easily compliments intricately hand-cut mosaic floors, carved white plaster moldings and original hand-painted ceilings, keeping true to La Mamounia’s feeling of old world grand elegance. All room amenities were created by the famed nose of Serge Luytens, leather accessories held the hotel stationery, and even the remote controls were presented in orange saddle stitched leather – very chic! Wonderfully sumptuous beds were dressed with decadent linens and topped with luxurious ‘Ambien’ pillows. The bathrooms are without doubt sexy and sultry and outfitted with lighting for every mood of the day. Suites are well laid out to take advantage of the hotel grounds with both the living room and bedroom flowing onto a patio overlooking the grove of never-ending orange trees that fills the air with an intoxicating fragrance.
November is my favorite time in Marrakech, and fall is the ideal season to be in Morocco; the orange groves are in full blossom and the warm dry temperature scented with citrus fragrance from the trees fills the air heavenly. The 27,000-square foot spa oozes sensuality and calm. I’ve been to many spas in my day but must concede that the spa at La Mamounia is one of the finest. I had one of the best manicures and pedicures ever.
Being a self-diagnosed ambiance junkie, I couldn’t help but notice the impeccable attention to every detail and theatrical change from AM to PM. Each evening as the sun began to set, like a movie set, hundreds of candles and lanterns around the hotel were lit, the hotel’s lights were dimmed, and the staff uniforms changed. From the front door greeters with fez and cap to the hostesses in glamorous evening gowns, the transition from day to night added to the hotel’s distinct change in energy.
During the daytime I ventured about the city and spent time in the souk shopping, at night I returned to the souk to see the exotic square come alive with food sellers, musicians, acrobats, animal performers, and my dreaded worst: snake charmers. There were way too many of them for my liking! I had just enough time to visit a few western-style shopping areas to search for leather goods and linen products. I also enjoyed an afternoon at Yves Saint Laurent's home situated in the La Majorelle gardens. St. Laurent certainly left his mark in the world.
Of course like everyone else, I came for the opening festivities, but along the way met many wonderful new friends I will be in touch with forever. The opening night party took place with a poolside cocktail reception. Once everyone in glamorous attire was gathered, the show began with a performance by the great tenor, Jose Carreras. An intriguing dance presentation by Cirque du Soleil interspersed with fire and water followed.
Each night I dined in one of the hotel’s fabulous restaurants: one night Moroccan, one night French, the other Italian. Each restaurant’s food was world-class. At the end of each evening my new friends and I ended up in Hemingway’s, a small dark bar anchored with a piano and jazz singer perfect for the die-hards to enjoy cognacs, brandy, and after dinner tequilas. After all, what’s a visit to La Mamounia without stepping back in time and visiting the watering hole Ernest Hemingway made so very famous and stated was the most beautiful hotel in the world!
The last night was one of the best. After we dined, drank, and laughed for hours, when Hemingway’s finally closed, I couldn’t resist and invited the last 20 of my new die-hard best friends up to my suite for just one more final nightcap. Room service made its necessary delivery of vodka, and together with my iPod we had a fun send-off party. It seemed like the party had just begun when before I knew it we were rushing to the airport with all my new friends exchanging numbers, email addresses, and sending tweets to the outside world. Poolside that morning, and at the airport as everyone departed, I overheard others talking about the noisy party last night!!! Of course I smiled quietly knowing I was to blame but not feeling guilty in the least.
I was sad to leave such a magical spot in the heart of Marrakech, but such is life at the La Mamounia...I shall return.
As always, there's more to come!
